Nitrous Outlet's Frequently Asked Questions

How does nitrous work?

Nitrous Oxide breaks into its individual molecules when exposed to heat, I.E. Hot engine combustion. This creates a higher concentration of oxygen within the cylinder, allowing for more fuel to be burnt as a result. This directly translates to an increase in power!


Is nitrous safe for my vehicle?

Nitrous isn’t inherently dangerous to an engine. The vast majority of damage caused by the use of nitrous is caused by improper tuning, installation, or user error.


Do I need a wet or dry system?

Most setups require a wet kit. The only time you should run a dry kit is when you have an aftermarket engine management unit that can control the nitrous solenoids and add fuel through the injectors at the same time.


What is the difference between a wet and dry system?

A wet system has a fuel solenoid, fuel feed, and provisions to supply the fuel solenoid with fuel independently of the engine fuel feeding method (Carb, EFI, etc.). A dry system is very similar to a wet system, but doesn’t have any of the fuel side.


Why do I have to pull timing when spraying nitrous?

When you introduce extra oxygen via nitrous to the engine, you greatly accelerate the burn rate of the air/fuel mixture. This means you have to set the mixture off later to achieve the proper effect.


Should I run a plate, nozzle, direct port, or something else?

This depends a lot on budget and how much you plan to spray. Nozzles are great budget options for smaller amounts of nitrous, but plates have better distribution and atomization. Not all applications have a plate kit that works on it, so a nozzle may be the best choice. A direct port will always be the best choice, but often times budget comes into play. For a small shot, it may not be worth the cost to plumb a direct port onto your intake manifold. Our puck systems are a fantastic option for single plane intake manifolds, and money maker setups are a good addition to EFI intakes.


What spark plug should I run?

The exact heat range of the plug needed will vary depending on quite a few factors, but in general nitrous should be ran with non-projected, copper or silver core spark plugs.


Does my nitrous kit come with everything I will need to spray?

At a very basic level, yes. However, we would always add a nitrous pressure gauge, purge kit, bottle heater, and a nitrous controller to every kit.


Do I need a progressive controller?

Progressive controllers are a fantastic way to spray larger nitrous shots without compromising traction. Typically, you want to spray as much as possible as soon as possible, and the adjustability of our progressive controller allows you to bring more nitrous in after the hit without having to run as many stages.


What size solenoids should I run?

It’s important to always run solenoids that your nitrous kit is designed around/has jetting information for. Different brand and size solenoids will flow slightly different, even with everything else the same, and so may throw your tune up off. It’s also important on progressed systems that you run the appropriate size solenoids for your shot, and not the largest ones you can get. Larger solenoids have much poorer control when being progressed.


Why do I need a nitrous controller?

Nitrous should only be sprayed at WOT and in the proper RPM range. Straying outside these limits can have catastrophic effect. The nitrous controller allows you to spray only within the parameters you set. Remember, a computer will always be faster and more accurate than a human!


Why do I need a purge/bottle heater?

Not only does purging look cool, it also has a practical application! Purging before a run helps get any air in the line out of the sytem, and can be used to lower the bottle pressure if you overshoot your target pressure. Bottle heaters are important to bring up the pressure in the bottle as you use the nitrous, or if it’s cold outside.


Speaking of, what is a good bottle pressure to spray at?

Our jet charts are calculated based on 950 PSI nitrous pressure. Our solenoids are rated for 950 PSI, and can be damage above that. It’s recommended to run 925-950 starting pressure. Running higher can damage the solenoids or cause you to run lean, and running much lower can cause the mixture to be very rich.


Can I spray nitrous on my stock motor?

Most stock domestic V8’s are ok to run a 100-150 shot on. Smaller engines with less cylinders can still be sprayed stock, but smaller amounts may be necessary.


Can I spray nitrous on my built N/A motor?

Most engines built for N/A applications have much tighter ring tolerances than factory. Consult your engine builder before spraying a built N/A motor.


Can I spray my boosted motor?

Typically, yes. It’s important to be aware that a small shot can go a long way on boosted engines, especially if they typically run high IAT’s or heat soak quickly (LSA, LT4, etc). The cooling effect of the nitrous will increase boost pressure and cool down the air charge, making it denser as well. This usually results in extra power gain over the shot size.


How long will my bottle last?

For every 100 shot, a 10 second use will use approx. 1 lb of nitrous. This means you can typically do 6-8 runs with a 100 shot using a 10 lb bottle. Remember, purging also uses nitrous, and once your bottle gets low (~20% capacity), you will have significant pressure drop over the run, and your car will lose power and run rich while spraying.


How much nitrous is left in my bottle?

The only accurate way to measure how much nitrous is left in the bottle is by weighing it. Weigh the bottle, then subtract the weight of the cylinder (found on the label) from the weight, and you will have the weight of the nitrous left in the bottle.


Should I mount the nitrous bottle upright or laying down?

You can mount the bottle either way. If stood upright, make sure the label is facing towards the front of the vehicle. If laying down, make sure it is at a 15* angle with the valve higher than the bottom, and have the label facing up.


If my bottle is laying down, does it have to be oriented a certain direction?

You can either mount it with the valve facing towards the front of the vehicle, or you can mount it sideways, or any angle in between.


How much does a nitrous bottle fill cost?

The price of nitrous per pound can vary wildly across the country and internationally. Typically it is $4-$8 per pound, but can be higher or lower depending on the area and dealer.


How is Automotive nitrous different from medical nitrous?

While both types of nitrous have essentially the same chemical make up, Automotive nitrous, also known as Nitrous+ or industrial nitrous, contains trace amounts of sulfur to deter people from abusing it as an inhalant.


Can I use any jet chart for my nitrous kit? 

You need to select the jet chart that corresponds with the kit you are running. Injection method, solenoid sizes, and fuel type/pressure all change the recommended jetting slightly.


Where can I find jet charts, instructions, and wiring diagrams for my kit?

We have all of these available here on our website. Alternatively, you can browse under the Jetting and tuning and technical support tabs respectively.


Should I stick with the recommended jetting?

The recommended jetting (jet chart tune ups) are starting points. It is impossible to have a perfect tune up for every vehicle and every combination, as even between 2 identical engines, tune ups can be slightly different! It’s important to get your vehicle tuned for the nitrous, so that it can be dialed in to make the best power and be the safest.


Can I run methanol/alcohol on my nitrous kit?

Yes, you can! Be sure to add an alcohol piston to the fuel solenoid before use, properly flush the system after uses, and use the correct jetting.


You can contact Technical Support at Nitrous Outlet for your support needs or questions on any of our products!

            254-848-4300 ext. 111 or email at [email protected]